Anthony Vaccarello has quietly become one of fashion’s most influential creative directors since taking over at Yves Saint Laurent in 2016. The Belgian-Italian designer masterfully balances respect for the house’s heritage with his own distinctive vision, creating collections that feel both timeless and thoroughly modern. Here are 10 key things that define Vaccarello’s approach at Saint Laurent. Chloe Wong reports
1. A background in fine arts
Before fashion, Vaccarello studied sculpture at Brussels’ La Cambre arts school before switching to a fashion course and graduating with honours in 2006. This explains his sculptural approach to clothing and his ability to create dramatic silhouettes that serve to enhance the body’s natural lines. His graduation collection was presented at the fashion festival in Hyères, Southern France, and after that, Jarl Lagerfeld offered him a position in fur design at Fendi.
2. Early recognition
Vaccarello first gained attention with his own label that launched in 2008, particularly for his asymmetric, body-conscious designs. His talent was quickly recognized with the prestigious ANDAM Fashion Award in 2011. However, since 2016 he has officially “paused” his label to focus solely on Saint Laurent.
3. Favoured by Versace
Vaccarello made a name for himself in the fashion world with his designs, receiving support from some of the biggest designers like Donatello Versace herself. He went on to design a collection for Versace’s sister brand Versus at 2014 New York Fashion Week. He was then promoted to creative director of Versus and was praised by Versace for his fresh innovation and talent.
4. Mastering the art of sex appeal
Vaccarello has perfected a particular kind of sophisticated sensuality at Saint Laurent. His designs reveal just enough skin while maintaining an air of mystery and elegance. His sleek, classic designs like tuxedos and blazer jackets exude an air of elegance without feeling stuffy or old.
5. A family man
Vaccarello is married to Arnaud Michaux, a fellow designer and longtime partner, who currently works with him at the Saint Laurent atelier. The pair moved to Paris together during 2008 when Vaccarello launched his own label. In spring of 2021, they announced that they have a child named Luca with an Instagram post.
6. An evening at the Eiffel Tower
In 2018, Vaccarello staged Saint Laurent’s runaway at the base of the Eiffel Tower, underscoring the French-ness of his brand. It was the first time a fashion runway show was ever placed at the Eiffel Tower, with a glittering backdrop for his fabulous designs. Vaccarello states that Saint Laurent is part of France’s cultural heritage, that to him, Saint Laurent is the Eiffel Tower.
7. Film enthusiast and producer
Like many masters of Art, Vaccarello dabbled in fields outside fashion, such as film production. Saint Laurent Productions, a new division created in 2023 allowed him to explore this passion, creating a queer short film by Pedro Almodóvar: Strange Way of Life. Vaccarello explains that growing up in the small town of Brussels, film was a way to escape isolation. This skill of storytelling also seeped its way into his creative process as a designer.
8. Architectural approach
His designs frequently feature clean lines and geometric elements, reflecting his background in sculpture. He employed his knowledge in constructing garments in 3D form, on the body, something he learnt from his sculptural studies. His penchants for clean sharp lines can be seen with the designs of sharp shoulders and streamlined coats. Vaccarello is breathing new life into the designs while still honouring the House’s dynamics, bringing Saint Laurent into the future.
9. Worn by your favourite celebrity
Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent has become a go-to for celebrities seeking bold yet elegant looks, dressing everyone from Hollywood stars to music icons. He has famously style Rosè from BlackPink, Angelina Jodie, Selena Gomez, Nicole Kidman and many more. Vaccarello states he prefers to know that person and what vibe they give off before selecting them to be dressed by Saint Laurent, showing his dedication to ensuring the label’s desired image.
10. Connecting Saint Laurent to culture
In 2024, Vaccarello expanded Saint Laurent’s portfolio through a bookstore and gallery on the Rue de Grenelle in France — Babylone. It houses first-edition books on photography and fashion, also serving a s a space for photography exhibitions. This project started as a follow up to their cinematic expansion, branching into literature and visual media.
