Gloria Fung reports on the newest from Tudor

Tudor has been gaining much traction in recent years and has launched some outstanding timepieces in its own right, stepping out from under the shadows of Rolex. The Black Bay, in particular, has become one of the most sought-after timepieces within its price category. 

The Black Bay 58 gets new looks this year at Watches and Wonders, one with a shaved-down silhouette while the other is expressed in precious alloy. Be it in silver, bronze or gold; the Black Bay exudes a no-fuss ruggedness that seems to lend itself to adventures and travel naturally. Hence, the GMT function is an obvious fit for the watch. 

The Black Bay 58 is inspired by the archival Tudor Submariner from 1958. The Black Bay 58’s slightly smaller sibling, the Black Bay 54, takes design cues from an even earlier iteration of the Submariner from 1954. 

This year, an 18-karat gold and a new GMT reference are integrated into the Black Bay 58 range. 

The Black Bay 58 18-Karat Gold version represents the bold utilitarian ruggedness of the Black Bay but in a precious alloy expression. Despite being gold, the watch and its bracelet have a muted tinge, which works well with the piece’s green dial and bezel. The piece is fitted with an automatic calibre MT 5400 with a power reserve of 70 hours. As it is in gold, this is one of the pricier Tudor references at USD 32,100.

The Coke bezel that Rolex fans asked for but didn’t get in this year’s GMT Master-II made an appearance in the Black Bay 58’s latest GMT reference. Measuring 39 mm, the watch is slightly smaller than the previous Black Bay GMT reference, making for more comfortable wear on the wrist. 

Paired either with a rubber strap or a matching stainless steel bracelet, this new reference is wearing more than just a new bezel. An all-new GMT movement, MT5450-U, which features enhanced antimagnetic capabilities thanks to its silicon balance spring, has 65 hours of power reserve. The 24-hour hand, along with the rotating bezel, come together to provide a simple indication of home and travel time. 

Also see: Watches and Wonders 2024: Rolex stuns with new iteration of GMT-Master II