Maslow So, co-founder of the bespoke tailoring company Il Negozio, is a firm believer in fitted suits as well as having an appropriate timepiece for every occasion

A.Lange & Söhne Lange 1 (191.039)

This is a watch that exudes elegance and refinement. While I may not be a seasoned watch collector, I do appreciate the need for a timepiece at various social engagements. Out of the few watches I own, the Lange 1 is undoubtedly my favourite. The series was introduced in 1994, a time when Germany underwent reunification and the Lange brand was revived. The curvature of the case edge provides a subtle yet significant detail that is commonly seen in formal watches. This design element serves to prevent the watch from getting caught on shirt cuffs, and in turn, damaging them. The dial layout, meanwhile, is intricate and precise, featuring an off-centre hour and minute hands, small seconds sub-dial, power reserve indicator and large date window. The design is clean, understated and easy to read at a glance. The watch’s moderate size of 38.5mm is perfect for both formal and semi-casual occasions, making it a versatile choice.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 (1100S/000R-B430)

Back in 1921, Vacheron Constantin introduced a watch with a tilted dial in the US market. A century later, they brought it back with a twist – they changed the direction of the tilted dial, added a new movement and enlarged the case. The original intention of this design was to allow drivers to easily check the time without having to turn their wrists. Its practicality may be debatable, but its visual impact is undeniable. It can even serve as an ice breaker in social situations. The pillow-shaped case of the Historiques American 1921 is smooth and sleek, with railroad-style markings and Breguet-style numerals and hands, all of which are common elements found in early watches.
The overall design exudes elegance and sophistication. At 36mm, the unisex version is impeccable as a dress watch.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Platinum 5196P

This is the epitome of a dress watch. As part of the iconic Calatrava series, which has been in production for almost a century, this timepiece is a testament to Patek Philippe’s commitment to excellence. Crafted from 950 platinum, the watch features a simple yet elegant design, with a two-tone silvery-grey dial that displays the hours, minutes and seconds. The Breguet-style numerals, minute markers in pearl beads, and leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in white gold lend a classic touch to the timepiece. The six o’clock position features a small seconds sub-dial in platinum. The watch’s proportions are well-balanced, with a 37mm diameter and slim 8mm thickness that make it comfortable to wear and suitable for any formal occasion. The design is sleek and timeless, with a strong Bauhaus aesthetic that exudes understated elegance. While it lacks flashy features, its simplicity and attention to detail make it a masterpiece in its own right. This watch is a perfect example of what can be achieved when the most basic elements are executed to perfection.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques Triple Calendrier 1942 (3110V/000A-B426)

This piece caught my eye despite my preference for smaller timepieces due to my wrist size. While 40mm or larger watches are not usually my style, I find the Historiques Triple Calendrier 1942 to be both aesthetically pleasing and comfortable to wear. The narrow bezel creates a proportionate appearance, even when worn on smaller wrists. The tear-drop lugs, triple-stepped case, and dual- tone red and blue dial evoke a strong sense of nostalgia, making it an excellent choice for those who appreciate vintage styling. The watch’s slightly raised face, which is made of sapphire glass in the modern version, gives it a retro feel that is reminiscent of the original resin model. The overall design is a perfect blend of classic aesthetics and modern practicality. Like the aforementioned watches, the Historiques Triple Calendrier 1942 is a manually-wound timepiece. While automatic watches are more convenient for daily wear, manual watches are easier to adjust when changing the time or date. Furthermore, due to the absence of automatic winding mechanisms, manually-wound watches tend to be thinner and lighter.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge (Q278856J)

There is a common belief that smaller watches are not masculine enough, but this is not true, especially when it comes to square watches. It’s important to dress appropriately for different occasions – while this concept may be overlooked in modern life due to busy schedules, it shows respect and is a form of courtesy. For those rare black-tie events, the Grande Reverso 1931 Rouge is undoubtedly one of the most appropriate watches to wear. To celebrate the 80th anniversary of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, this timepiece was released in 2011. With a width of 27.5mm, thickness of 7.4mm, and length of 46.5mm (lug to lug), the watch is one of the most classic designs in men’s square watches. It features a bright red enamel dial that is both avant-garde and elegant, with a touch of classic sophistication. The watch’s unique feature is its reversible case, which can be personalised with customised engravings.

Vacheron Constantin ‘Jumbo’ 222 (44018/411)

This classic luxury sports watch has gained a cult following since its original release in the 1970s. The watch was reissued in March of last year, as part of the Historiques series, to commemorate the brand’s 222nd anniversary. Initially, the reissued version was highly sought-after due to its combination of sporty aesthetics and exquisite craftsmanship. However, the watch was made of 18k yellow gold and featured a transparent back, which gave it a less sporty feel and made it more of a “sporty style” watch. The original Jumbo, designed by young designer Jorg Hysek, boasted a 37mm case diameter, grooved bezel, gold dial with bar-shaped hour markers and hands, integrated bracelet, closed back, hexagonal central links, and a Maltese cross logo at the 5 o’clock position. Personally, I prefer the original Jumbo’s steel version over the all-gold version. It’s fascinating to note that in the 1970s 37mm was considered a “jumbo” watch – today 37mm sports watches are classified as small watches. This goes to show how times have changed, and how styles have evolved over the years.

Also see: Carson Chan’s watch collection