In the contemporary culinary landscape, where the notion of “innovation” is often defined by new techniques, imported ingredients, or boundary-pushing presentations, Bo.lan Bangkok chooses a different path, one that is quieter, more restrained, yet infinitely deeper in detail. It is a path founded on the belief that the future of Thai cuisine can only be sustainable if we first learn to truly listen to the voices of the past.
This conversation with Chef Duangporn “Bo” Songvisava, founder and pioneer behind Bo.lan Bangkok, is therefore not merely about dishes or international accolades. Rather, it is an exploration of the philosophy behind choosing to pursue what is “rich in meaning,” from the revival of traditional culinary practices and close collaboration with farmers, to a belief system rooted in passing knowledge and inspiration forward.
#legend_th: What was the starting point of this journey, and what inspired you to invest in Bo.lan Bangkok?
DS:We opened Bo.lan Bangkok back in 2009. At the time, Thai food was often presented in very limited and rather fixed formats. If you wanted to take international guests out for a truly refined meal, it usually meant dining in a hotel, and the menus tended to be very similar everywhere. Yet in reality, there are so many extraordinary Thai dishes. They were simply being presented too casually, to the point where it felt difficult to bring our guests to experience them properly.
From that perspective, we began to see a clear gap in the market. There was no Thai fine dining that offered hotel-level standards of service and overall experience. So we wanted to fill that space.
Bo.lan Bangkok was founded on the principle of wanting to preserve and pass on the charm of traditional Thai cuisine. There is still so much we don’t truly know about our own food. We are deeply familiar with Western cuisine, yet when it comes to Thai food, we often haven’t explored it with the same depth or seriousness.
#legend_th: What has been the greatest challenge in bringing Thai flavours, rooted in local ingredients, to an international stage?
DS: First of all, I would like to acknowledge the Tourism Authority of Thailand, because they have played a significant role in promoting Thai cuisine globally, and they have done so consistently over many generations. Because of this, I don’t believe presenting bold Thai flavours to an international audience is particularly difficult, the food itself is already delicious.
The real challenge lies in presenting the conventions, the traditional way of eating Thai food. This is something we consciously try to communicate to every guest who comes to Bo.lan Bangkok. For me, this is the true definition of Thai fine dining. We strive to elevate and articulate what Thai fine dining truly is, and to show that following Western conventions is not the only path to excellence. We can reinterpret and adapt our own traditions, provided there is strong reasoning and a solid foundation behind them.
#legend_th: Having worked alongside many renowned chefs, which experience has left the deepest impression on you, and why?
DS: I truly admire David Thompson. He is like a teacher to me. He was my academic advisor when I was pursuing my master’s degree in Thai cuisine, and his passion for Thai food was, at the time, even greater than my own. He was also one of the first chefs to use ingredients that no one else would consider in a restaurant context. When I was working in London, he used local greens such as Pak Tiew and Pak Khayang, ingredients that my friends would pick up and ask, “What is this?” Even I couldn’t answer at the time. Yet he was using these ingredients over 20 years ago. Another remarkable aspect is the way he sees food. His perspective is extraordinary, and it stems from the fact that he reads extensively, studies deeply, and truly immerses himself in his subject. That level of dedication is something I deeply admire.
#legend_th: What is the next milestone you and Bo.lan Bangkok hope to achieve?
DS: The recognition that both me and our team at Bo.lan Bangkok aspire to next is the MICHELIN Green Star. Sustainability has always been central to the way we work, in many different dimensions. If one day we are fortunate enough to receive a Green Star, it would be a powerful affirmation that what we are doing is meaningful, and it would be a great source of pride for everyone at Bo.lan Bangkok.
#legend_th: What is a sense of pride that comes with being a chef, something that cannot be found in other professions?
DS: This profession requires us to encounter many people, both positive and challenging. But when it comes to pride, it really begins upstream, with our work alongside farmers. I always say that we support one another; without them, we simply couldn’t exist. What makes me proud is knowing that we play a part in improving their quality of life. By sourcing organic ingredients, we help ensure that they are healthier, as they no longer have to be exposed to chemicals in their daily lives as before. Other professions can contribute in similar ways, but perhaps to a lesser extent. As chefs, we are able to support the environment and society in very tangible ways.
For instance, we can reduce plastic usage through our packaging, whereas professions such as doctors or nurses may face limitations in this regard. I genuinely believe that chefs can give a great deal back to society. We can create food that makes people healthier, choose the very best ingredients, for health, for the environment, for our guests, and for ourselves. At the same time, we are able to create meaningful moments for others, to be part of what feels like a “reward” in someone’s life. And being able to inspire others within the same industry is, for me, one of the greatest sources of pride.
#legend_th: If you could choose just one person, who would you consider your role model as a chef?
DS: I would say Will Goldfarb. He is an American pastry chef who relocated to Bali. He is incredibly meticulous, almost obsessive-compulsive, yet at the same time, very calm. He has an exceptional sense of structure in his work, paired with a level of creativity that is truly rare. What I admire most is his decision to avoid using any flavour enhancers at all, despite being a pastry chef. Yet he still manages to create desserts that are memorable and deeply satisfying. He is also incredibly gentle with his team, a true example of an ideal leader.
