Tiffany & Co. presents its Tiffany Wonder exhibition in Tokyo, featuring over 500 remarkable pieces
Author: Phuriwat Hirunrangsee | Photographer: -
Apr 30, 2024
"...One of the American brands with a rich history that certainly comes to mind is none other than Tiffany & Co. The narrative spanning over a century since its first step in 1837 is eloquently conveyed through its exquisite jewellery. This story is currently being showcased through the Tiffany Wonder exhibition, held at the TOKYO NODE gallery located within the Toranomon Hills Station Tower, one of Tokyo's tallest buildings..."
The entrance of the exhibition looks outstanding with a striking yellow canary bird sculpture, reminiscent of Tiffany's iconic Bird on a Rock design, standing on a large turquoise Tiffany box. Intricately adorned with ribbons, this eye-catching centrepiece offers an interactive experience, allowing visitors to engage with a three-dimensional digital artwork of the canary bird. Furthermore, this exhibition is divided into 10 rooms, meticulously curated to showcase over 500 pieces of jewellery and artworks, presenting the story of Tiffany & Co.'s design evolution from its inception to the present day.
In Love With Japan
Dating back to the year 1837, Charles Lewis Tiffany initiated the relationship between the brand and Japan by carefully selecting and importing exclusively rare items from Japan to sell in the States. The exhibition room that narrates the inspiration drawn from Japan showcases stained glass lamps designed by Charles Lewis Tiffany himself, inspired by Japanese aesthetics. Additionally, metal trays with intricately carved Eastern-inspired patterns and gold jewellery engraved with motifs of flamingoes perched atop pine were also displayed. Furthermore, many other designers of the house, including Edward C. Moore, Louis Comfort Tiffany, and Elsa Peretti, often drew inspiration from Japanese art to design exquisite jewellery pieces for Tiffany & Co.
Elsa Peretti's fascination with natural shapes, in particular, led her on a journey to Japan in search of inspiration. Evidence of this can be found in the form of notebooks showcasing sketches of shapes inspired by Japanese wrapping techniques, the art of intricate knotting, delicate weaving of threads, as well as lacquer works that were incorporated into her distinctive designs. Additionally, the exhibition also features works by George Paulding Farnham, including orchid brooches meticulously crafted with enamelling techniques and adorned with beautifully coloured gems, resulting in stunningly detailed jewellery pieces. This exhibition serves as both a celebration and a tribute to the profound influence that the jewellery brand has received from Japan.
Bird on a Rock
A standout masterpiece showcased in this exhibition is the Bird on a Rock brooch, an iconic design crafted by Jean Schlumberger, first introduced in 1965. Bunny Mellon, a socialite enamoured with fashion, requested Schlumberger to design a unique and beautiful brooch, thus giving birth to the Bird on a Rock. Since then, it has become a symbol of fun, freedom, and possibility. The brooch depicts a cockatoo bird perched atop a single jewel, presented in various versions. Whether crafted in platinum and gold, accented with amethysts, aquamarines, tanzanite, citrine, or the iconic pink kunzite discovered by the brand in 1902 and named after the brand's gemologist Dr. George Frederick Kuntz. Initially, the birds on the pearls were uniform in size. Later, modifications were made to ensure that the size of the bird corresponded to the size of the chosen jewel for the design.
Flight of Fancy
The Bird on a Rock design ascended to legendary status when it was merged with a stunning yellow diamond measuring 128.54 carats in 1995, seamlessly merging the worlds of Jean Schlumberger and Charles Lewis Tiffany. This exquisite brooch was showcased in the Retrospective exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2023. The precious yellow diamond adorned a new setting designed to celebrate the grand opening of The Landmark, Tiffany & Co.'s flagship store on Fifth Avenue. Inspired by the timeless design of Bird on a Rock, five yellow cockatoos soared gracefully, surrounded by the magnificent 128.54-carat diamond. The versatile setting could be worn as a pendant, necklace, or brooch, elegantly displayed in a floating glass case. On the three surrounding walls, digital artworks alternated, immersing viewers in a captivating ambience that enhanced the appreciation of the meticulous details of the masterpiece.
Blue Book
In 1845, Tiffany & Co. dispatched catalogues with azure-tinted green covers to their customers via postal services. These catalogues were intended to display the brand's newest jewellery designs, enabling customers to preview them ahead of others. The practice of using these tinted green cover catalogues persists to the present day, evolving into the development of upscale jewellery collections. As an homage to this enduring history, a section of the exhibition is devoted to pieces that were formerly featured in the Blue Book.
The Medusa Pendant
One of the highlights of this exhibition is the return of the Medusa pendant to the brand once again. This pendant features a depiction of a budding jellyfish in the Medusa stage and was originally designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany in 1904. It exemplifies outstanding craftsmanship and reflects Louis Comfort Tiffany's distinctive design identity. After being purchased by another party, the pendant resurfaced in a Sotheby's auction and was subsequently repurchased by the brand in 2021, fetching a price exceeding around three million US dollars.
Garden of Imagination
Crafted designs inspired by nature are uniquely distinctive in this exhibition. One such piece is the Plume necklace, a delicate feather necklace that exudes both fragility and power with its platinum and gold setting adorned with diamonds and rubies. Originally designed in 1962, it was reproduced in 2018. Moreover, the beautifully crafted brooches showcased include the Trophee de Vaillance Clip from 1941, adorned with colourful gemstones, which was once owned by Diana Vreeland. Another noteworthy piece is the Fleur der Mer brooch from 1956, shaped like a flower and set in platinum, embellished with diamonds and sapphires. This particular brooch was once in the possession of the enchanting actress Elizabeth Taylor.
In the Wonder of Dreams
Another captivating aspect of the exhibition is the recreation of Tiffany & Co.'s displays as envisioned by several of the brand's art directors, which have served as a source of inspiration and iconicity. Particularly noteworthy are the works of Gene Moore, who crafted over 5,000 display concepts for the Fifth Avenue store. These displays evoke dreams and uniqueness, enticing viewers to pause, imagine, and dream about exquisite jewellery pieces. The venue for this exhibition is located in the Toranomon Hills Station Tower, one of Tokyo's tallest buildings, designed by OMA, the renowned architectural firm responsible for renovating Tiffany & Co.'s flagship store on Fifth Avenue. This venue reflects the connection between Tiffany & Co., Tokyo, and New York City. The exhibition will run until June 23rd.
Sources: Tiffany & Co.
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