Paris Fashion Week SS2025: Bold redefinition of beauty from Alessandro Michele

“...Pavillon des Folies is the first show from Alessandro Michele with the luxury brand Valentino in his role as Creative Director. This Spring/Summer 2025 collection is inspired by the concept of Maximalism Style and revisits the grand trends of the 1970s that the maison is celebrated for. Moreover, the show illustrates a redefinition of the term ‘beauty’, suggesting that beauty serves as a balm for the suffering caused by the capriciousness of nature and the uncertainty of fate. It is a crucial guide among the chaos of an individual’slife...”

This is regarded as one of the most intriguing shows at Paris Fashion Week 2024, and it marks the first time Creative Director Alessandro Michele has created a show for the Spring/Summer 2025 collection. This collection invites everyone to explore the questioning of the concept of ‘beauty’, as we are all fragile beings who constantly face limitations and uncertainties. Consequently, Michele designed the show with all the models walking on a runway made of shattered glass, accompanied by the sound of breaking glass, illustrating that our lives are akin to walking on glass that could shatter at any moment. Each step carries the risk of stumbling. We live with inevitable change, which helps us understand the value of time. What meaning does our journey on this Earth hold without the constraint of time? Therefore, all the time we have is precious. Even as we are hold by the absurdity of change, we continue to seek value and stability in our lives.

From this point of view, a new definition of the term 'beauty' develop. Beauty serves as the suffering caused by the capriciousness of nature and the uncertainties of fate. It is essential for guiding us through the madness that occurs in an individual's life. The show, titled Pavillon des Folies, reflects this notion, as 'Folies' in French translates to madness. Yet, no one has truly been able to define beauty, due to its nature, which cannot be captured by words or letters. Beauty is thus a comfort to dreamers and becomes a force that signifies the powerlessness of things. It is a light that shields us from the darkness of meaninglessness, and at the same time, it is a potion that helps us transcend the chasm of uncertainty.

This collection references Valentino's long history, particularly from the 1970s, while also bringing Michele's distinctive 'Maximalism' into a new era. The models donned face veils, oversized hats, earrings, faux fur, white tights, polka dots, floral patterns, voluminous garments, bows, and jewellery. Each of these elements is a hallmark of his collections and shows. Furthermore, he stated that this collection celebrates the joy of dressing and the quest for the meaning of beauty. It is a fusion of Valentino's unique style and Michele's vision. He drew inspiration from what he calls the 'golden age' of the maison, which refers to the 1970s. Additionally, he incorporated trends from the late 1960s and early 1980s into this collection, with a prominent element being 'red', the maison's signature colour.

With his distinctive Maximalism Style, this collection is filled with numerous narratives. Michele pairs jackets with floral skirts and lace tights, red bras and silk panties with jackets adorned with faux fur and veils, or feathered hats with printed silk dresses. He stated that this is his way of seeking the meaning of beauty.

Also See: Paris Fashion Week SS2025: Saint Laurent pays modern tribute to the legendary Yves