CHANEL'S PLUME DE CHANEL COLLECTION CELEBRATES A CENTURY OF FEATHERED ELEGANCE
Author: Phuriwat Hirunrangsee | Photographer: Courtesy of Chanel
Feb 26, 2025
"...In 1910, Gabrielle Chanel unveiled her first creation: a simple yet striking hat adorned with a single white feather. This modest detail would go on to become one of the most enduring symbols of the House of Chanel. By 1932, the feather had transformed into a more luxurious form as part of Mademoiselle's exclusive "Bijoux de Diamants" collection, reimagined as a diamond-set brooch..."
Alongside iconic motifs such as the star, sun, and bow, this feather became an emblem of Chanel's haute joaillerie. Now, more than a century later, the feather motif continues to captivate in the "Plume de Chanel" collection, conceived by Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the Chanel Fine Jewellery Creation Studio, who tragically passed away last November. A remarkable evolution of Chanel's legacy, the collection breathes new life into the iconic shape first embraced by Gabrielle Chanel. Leguéreau's interpretation features fully articulated feather-shaped jewels, mimicking the texture and undulating movement of a real feather, offering a modern, breathtaking take on timeless elegance. Much like Chanel's original creations, it seamlessly blends audacity, freedom, and sophistication.
This latest iteration of the Plume motif marks a new milestone in the collection's evolution. Leguéreau's first "Plume" collection in 2010 was inspired by the 1932 brooch. Fast forward to 2024, and the "Plume de Chanel" collection now introduces six new sets that bridge the gap between heritage and innovation. Comprising 15 exquisite pieces, the collection exudes a sense of freedom and elegance, with designs that flow effortlessly along the body's natural curves. From asymmetrical earrings to transformative necklaces, rings, and hair ornaments, each piece pushes the boundaries of traditional jewellery. The collection embodies the spirit of the modern woman — dynamic, elegant, and ever-evolving.
At the heart of the collection's fluidity is Chanel's groundbreaking "emmaillement" technique, which allows the feather's barbs to move with remarkable flexibility, lending the jewels an extraordinary sense of weightlessness. This fluidity is enhanced by a carefully curated palette of diamonds, pink sapphires, and pink tourmalines, each stone handpicked to complement the feather's airy aesthetic. Soft pink tones, ranging from delicate pastels to deep, rich hues, add depth and dimension, elevating the feather's natural grace with every movement.
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Standout pieces from the collection include the "Plume Couture de Chanel" necklace, a breathtaking three-tiered design. The central strand features a feather-shaped motif, meticulously crafted in pink gold and set with pink sapphires that transition from soft pastels to deeper, richer tones, evoking the ethereal beauty of a feather suspended in air.
Framing this centrepiece are two strands of white gold, each set with a delicate row of round diamonds. Meanwhile, the Toi et Moi "Plume Mademoiselle de Chanel" ring showcases a beautifully articulated feather, set with fancy-cut diamonds and a soft pink pear-cut diamond, underscoring the collection's exceptional craftsmanship and exquisite attention to detail.
The "Plume de Chanel" collection is not only a tribute to the beauty of feathers but a bold declaration of design innovation and the unparalleled craftsmanship that has defined Chanel for generations. As Gabrielle Chanel once said, "My jewellery is never detached from the idea of a woman and her dress. Because dresses change, jewellery, too, is evolving."
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