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A Daring Fusion: Bulgari and MB&F unveil a groundbreaking serpenti watch

Author: Phuriwat Hirunrangsee | Photographer: Courtesy of Bulgari

Mar 04, 2025

"...In a stunning celebration of the Year of the Serpenti, Bulgari has pushed the boundaries of haute horology by collaborating with MB&F to create a remarkable special edition watch..."

Since its inception in 2005, MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) has been redefining the landscape of watchmaking with its Horological Machines, which are dynamic, three-dimensional sculptures brought to life through collaboration with visionary partners. These innovative timepieces draw inspiration from an eclectic range of themes, including science fiction, supercars, and the wonders of the animal kingdom.

This latest collaboration marks a thrilling return for the two brands, following their successful partnership in 2021. This time, they unveil a reimagining of one of Bulgari's most iconic collections—the Serpenti—a symbol of elegance and mystique since its introduction in 1948. This reinterpretation marries Bulgari’s rich heritage with MB&F's avant-garde approach, necessitating a complete rethinking of the design, encompassing mechanical engineering, movement mechanics, and case aesthetics.

The design process was nothing short of intense, with countless sketches and a plethora of 3D models crafted to achieve a visually stunning case that captivates from every angle. The complexity of the serpentine form presented significant challenges, not only in the intricately shaped metal casing but also in the five sapphire crystal components, including the serpent's captivating eyes and case back, all while ensuring an impressive water resistance of up to 30 metres.

Inside the intricate case of the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti lies a revolutionary in-house movement that defies tradition. At its core, rotating hour and minute domes bring the serpent’s eyes to life—crafted from ultra-light aluminium and hand-coated with Super-LumiNova for a luminous glow. A striking 14mm flying balance wheel, oscillating at 2.5Hz, symbolises the serpent’s "brain," secured by a sculptural bridge bearing both brands' names. Twin crowns, discreetly integrated into the rear lugs, control winding and time-setting. The reverse reveals the power reserve indicator and 310 hand-finished components, reflecting MB&F’s commitment to artisanal craftsmanship. With only six to eight movements assembled per month, the exclusive 99-piece edition will take over a year to complete—an exceptional fusion of technical mastery and artistic excellence.

 The Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti is available in three limited-edition models, each meticulously crafted in a limited run of just 33 pieces. The first model features a grade 5 titanium case paired with mesmerising blue domes, while the second boasts an 18K rose gold case adorned with vibrant green eyes. The third iteration, crafted from black PVD-coated steel, is distinguished by its eye-catching red accents.

“This piece was a pleasure to design but technically very challenging to produce,” says Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Creative Director & Designer for Bulgari Watches. “The aim was to have a totally different vision. The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bulgari Serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bulgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise. Like all good collaborations, it is a win-win project.”

This exquisite fusion of Bulgari’s signature elegance and MB&F's cutting-edge innovation results in a timepiece that stands as a testament to the artistry of horology. The Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti is not merely a watch; it is a statement piece that invites collectors and enthusiasts alike to embrace its unparalleled allure.

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