Master chefs collaborate on Cantonese and Chiuchow cuisine at Ming Court, Wan Chai

David Ho speaks to chef Tsang Chiu King of Ming Court, Wan Chai and chef Cheung Yat Fung, Executive Chef of Chao Shang Chao (Chaoyang) about their recent collaboration and their long friendship

Ming Court, Wan Chai recently played host to an exclusive culinary affair - the extravagant Four-Hands Starred Feast of Cantonese Mastery & Chiuchow Symphony. A collaboration with Michelin three-star restaurant Chao Shang Chao (Chaoyang) of Beijing, it brought together the chefs of both restaurants to create three nights of Cantonese and Chiuchow feasts.

It helps that chef Tsang Chiu King, the culinary director of Ming Court, Wan Chai, has known chef Cheung Yat Fung, the executive chef of Chao Shang Chao (Chaoyang), for two decades. The two master chefs tell #legend about their friendship, culinary styles and what makes for great cooking.

I understand the two of you have known each other for two decades, when chef Tsang mentored chef Cheung at Dynasty Garden in Kowloon Bay. Please tell us about your friendship and has it made any impact on your cooking?

Chef Tsang: I first met Fung (chef Cheung) over 20 years ago at a chefs’ gathering with other chef friends, but it wasn’t until early-2016 that we began working together at Dynasty Garden in Kowloon Bay. From the start, I was impressed by his strong character. He takes his work seriously, yet he communicates in a straightforward and honest way, which is something we both value.

Now, seeing him achieve the title of Michelin three-stars at Chao Shang Chao (Chaoyang) in Beijing brings me genuine joy. Till now, our culinary exchanges continue to deepen our bond, as we share ideas about cooking, recipes, and discovering new ingredients together.

Chef Cheung: During my time there, chef Tsang generously shared his knowledge and skills with me. I learned a great deal about various techniques and ingredients, which laid a solid foundation for my culinary career. Before I moved to Ji Pin Court in Shanghai in 2016, chef Tsang kindly presented me with a USB containing all his recipes – everything from signature dishes to festive specialties such as Chinese New Year.

One of the most valuable pieces of advice he gave me was to stay true to my culinary style and not feel pressured to follow trends. His guidance and support have been instrumental in my development as a chef, and I am truly grateful for the friendship we’ve built over the past two decades.

How would you describe your culinary style? 

Chef Tsang: My culinary style embraces tradition while emphasising consistent standards. I deeply value the classic techniques and flavours that form the foundation of our Cantonese cuisine. At the same time, I find joy in experimenting with different ingredients and modern twists, allowing me to bring new life to familiar dishes. This blend of respect for the past and a willingness to innovate keeps my cooking both authentic and exciting.

Chef Cheung: My culinary style is rooted in the authenticity of Cantonese cuisine, with a strong emphasis on traditional techniques and high-quality ingredients. I believe in honouring and preserving the rich flavours and cultural significance of classic dishes. While I respect time-honoured recipes, I also enjoy reinterpreting them by incorporating different ingredients that enhance the original concepts.

What are the hallmarks of great cooking in your view? How did diners get to see it at this event?

Chef Tsang: In my view, the hallmarks of great cooking lie in the harmonious balance of food, service, experience, and rhythm. The foundation of exceptional cuisine starts with high-quality ingredients and expert craftsmanship, where each dish tells a vibrant story of flavour and traditional techniques. Complementing this is the role of service, which must be attentive yet unobtrusive, enhancing the overall dining experience without overshadowing it.

During our three evenings of the four-hands showcase, diners have the opportunity to see this philosophy manifest. The menu had been thoughtfully crafted together, highlighting seasonal ingredients and honouring time-honoured cooking methods. More than just enjoying carefully prepared dishes, we hope guests will sense the teamwork in our kitchen. We have developed a rhythm that allows for seamless transitions between courses, ensuring that the flavours engage and evolve naturally. This collaborative spirit not only enriches the meal but also invites diners to appreciate the artistry behind great cooking.

Chef Cheung: I define great cooking by its ability to create an emotional connection with diners. To me, the essence of a remarkable feast lies in the unforgettable experiences it offers. Understanding that guests seek not just a meal but a memorable occasion, I believe it’s essential to provide a warm and courteous greeting that sets a welcoming tone from the very beginning.

At the event, diners will witness this philosophy in action with each dish served. I aim to personally introduce the unique qualities of each creation, integrating small yet meaningful rituals that encourage interaction. This approach not only enhances the dining experience but also fosters a deeper connection between guests and their meal, truly showcasing the hallmarks of exceptional cooking.

What’s your favourite dish that chef Cheung is bringing to this and why? 

Chef Tsang: My favourite dish that chef Cheung is bringing to this event is the Braised Fish Maw with Chiuchow Aged Pickled Radish. I appreciate this dish particularly for chef Cheung’s creative use of aged pickled radish from Chiuchow to craft the sauce, which wonderfully elevates this Cantonese classic. His technique of slowly simmering the fish maw allows the multiple layer of flavours to develop beautifully, and it is relatively rare in Hong Kong to see such a meticulous approach due to the time involved in perfecting it.

And what’s your favourite from chef Tsang? 

Chef Cheung: One of my favourite dishes that chef Tsang is bringing to this event is the Steamed Coral Garoupa Fillet with Spring Onion and Rock Salt in Infused Chicken Essence. This dish showcases the fresh Australian coral garoupa fillet, which is lightly seasoned and marinated in a special chicken oil, enhancing its delicate flavour.

What I admire most about this dish is how it combines simplicity with elegance. Chef Tsang's innovative approach of marinating the fish with rock salt and chicken essence enriches the taste, setting it apart from traditional steamed fish that typically pairs with soy sauce. The addition of spring onion and crispy ginger not only elevates the texture but also adds a delightful aroma that complements the fish beautifully. The cooking time and technique are crucial, ensuring that the fish remains tender and full of flavour. Chef Tsang's attention to detail and respect for the ingredients truly make this dish exceptional.

Why do you feel the need for this collaboration?

Chef Tsang: Collaboration is essential for nurturing the next generation of culinary talent. In 2025, Ming Court, Wan Chai intends to welcome culinary experts from around the world to showcase the very best of Chinese cuisine. This initiative promotes cultural exchange and ensures that the rich heritage of Chinese cooking is honoured and preserved for future generations.

Chef Cheung: I feel a deep connection to this collaboration because chef Tsang has always been one of the most respected chefs to me, and I affectionately refer to him as Dai Lo (Big Brother). This partnership not only allows us to reunite but also gives me the opportunity to showcase my culinary creations to audiences in Hong Kong, which is a meaningful experience for me.

What’s next for you? Any other collaborations we can expect?

Chef Tsang: I am excited to be one of the two mentors for Langham Hospitality Group’s upcoming Chinese Star Chef Academy programme. In this role, I will be coaching and guiding selected Chinese culinary talents from each of the group’s hotel properties around the world.

Soon, I will be travelling to China, including cities like Shanghai and Ningbo, as well as Jakarta in Indonesia, to conduct in-person training and assessments. My aim is to help these talented chefs elevate their culinary skills further, inspire creativity in developing their own signature dishes in their unique styles, and enhance their management abilities.

Ultimately, my goal is to support younger generations and ensure the rich culture of Chinese and Cantonese cuisines are preserved and celebrated. I believe that passing on this heritage is vital for the future of our culinary landscape.

Chef Cheung: I am currently overseeing the newly opened Shenzhen branch of Chao Shang Chao, and I am dedicated to maintaining the exceptional quality we pride ourselves on in our Beijing location.

Looking ahead, I am also exploring ideas for a new concept that will focus on serving more affordable, crowd-pleasing dishes. My goal is to make it easier for a wider range of diners to enjoy my culinary creations in the future.

Also see: Where to eat in Hong Kong in March 2025