Hansik Goo head chef on his take on traditional Korean flavours 

One year since taking over the reins of one-Michelin-starred Hansik Goo, head chef park Seung Hun tells Stephenie Gee about the journey from his mother’s restaurant to Mingoo Kang’s kitchens and his unique interpretation of traditional Korean flavours 

For Park Seung Hun, it all began in his mother’s restaurant in Uijeongbu, just north of Seoul, where a teenage Park would help out after school. The many possibilities and flavours excited him, as did the thought of creating beautiful dishes for others. It was this experience that inspired him to pursue formal training in the craft, enrolling in a culinary college in Korea. After graduation, in a stroke of luck and fate, he secured an apprenticeship to refine his skills at the two-Michelin-starred Mingles in Gangnam, the flagship restaurant of chef Mingoo Kang – the man Park cites as one of his most profound influences. “His extraordinary accomplishments, honed through dedication and skill, are a testament to his passion for cooking,” says the born- and-bred South Korean. “Beyond this professional success, his qualities as an individual, such as humility and devotion to things he is passionate about, inspire me and continue to fuel my own pursuit of excellence in the culinary world.”

There he spent eight years, before relocating to Hong Kong in 2020 to join the opening team of Hansik Goo – whose name translates to “one” (han) “family” (sikgoo) while also referencing the “goo” in Mingoo Kang. As one of its founding figures, Park has been instrumental in elevating the restaurant’s stature, both in size and reputation – Hansik Goo is the only Korean restaurant in the city to be bestowed with a Michelin star. His hard work has paid off – in 2023, he took over the helm of the restaurant with the departure of former head chef Steve Lee, becoming the youngest head chef within the ZS portfolio.

“I was elated when I was appointed as the new head chef at Hansik Goo, stepping into the role after eight fulfilling years working under the mentorship of chef Mingoo,” Park says. “The opportunity to take on this new responsibility filled me with joy, especially considering my journey of growth alongside chef Mingoo. Having spent numerous years under his guidance, I embraced this challenge with enthusiasm. While the added responsibilities did bring about moments of pressure, I see pressure as a catalyst for personal growth and strength, pushing me to develop further in my career.” 

How would you describe your culinary philosophy? 

My culinary philosophy revolves around infusing each dish with not just flavours and textures but also with a piece of myself – my love, dedication and respect for the ingredients. Additionally, I believe in the beauty of simplicity and authenticity. Hence I create dishes that honour traditions while adding my own creative touch. 

Where do you find inspiration for your dishes? 

I draw inspiration from myriad sources. Primarily, my creations are influenced by the flavours and experiences of dishes I have savoured. Moreover, I often reference classic Korean culinary traditions, seeking ways to innovate and elevate these time-honoured recipes to new heights. 

What is the essence of Korean cuisine? And how would you describe the cuisine at Hansik Goo?

The essence of Korean cuisine largely revolves around fermentation, particularly focusing on jang, kimchi, and salted seafood items ( jeotgal), which are essential components of Korean culinary tradition. At Hansik Goo, we aim to interpret the traditional Korean meal, refining each dish to be as authentic as possible while drawing inspiration from familiar Korean flavours. 

What are some of your current challenges? And how are you overcoming them?

My current challenge is expanding Korean fine dining globally and inspiring the next generation of chefs to embrace Korean cuisine. Given the noticeable scarcity of young Korean chefs interested in pursuing Korean culinary arts, I hope to exhibit innovations through my cooking. This involves showcasing the creativity and evolution within Korean fine dining, emphasising how traditional techniques and ingredients are being reinvented using modern culinary approaches. 

How would you describe the Hong Kong palate, and how have you had to adapt to it

Hong Kong people are known for their open-mindedness towards different cuisines. Their palates are diverse, and they generally show willingness to explore various cuisines. While we focus on serving authentic Korean cuisine at Hansik Goo, we have tailored our seasoning and flavours to better suit the local palate. Despite these adaptations, we maintain the traditional presentation and dining customs associated with Korean cuisine. 

What are some examples of how you balance tradition with modern touches?

At Hansik Goo, we are dedicated to maintaining a delicate balance between preserving the traditional roots of Korean culinary heritage and infusing modern interpretations and techniques, aiming to showcase the versatility and depth of Korean cuisine to a worldwide audience. 

One example is our signature dish, Samgye Yakbap, inspired by the traditional Korean meal samgye-tang, featuring a fusion of chicken, ginseng and glutinous rice. We present a unique take on this by preparing rice cooked with ginseng and chicken stock alongside a deep-fried chicken roulade. This dish exemplifies our commitment to harmonising tradition with contemporary flair. 

Through the reinterpretation of timeless Korean flavours and methods using modern culinary approaches, I aspire to acquaint our guests with the intricate depth and subtleties of Korean gastronomy. Our ultimate goal is to pay homage to tradition while igniting fresh curiosity and fostering a deeper appreciation for this culturally rich culinary legacy. 

Any current menu highlights or personal favourites? 

One of the standout features on our current menu is the Bansang set we offer during lunch service. In Korean cuisine, the tradition of sharing a meal often fosters enduring and cherished memories. Our Bansang, however, provides a unique opportunity for diners to delve into a distinct facet of Korean dining. Originally crafted to curate a complete table setting featuring rice, an assortment of banchan (side dishes), and soup, our Bansang offers a personalised dining experience. It’s a must-have item that we firmly believe resonates deeply with the Hong Kong market. 

How would you describe the Korean dining scene in Hong Kong, and where does Hansik Goo stand? Or rather, what do you hope it offers?

While Hong Kong boasts numerous casual Korean restaurants, fine-dining establishments in the Korean cuisine sphere are relatively scarce. This scarcity of upscale Korean dining venues in Hong Kong is one of the reasons why I find great fulfilment working at Hansik Goo. I believe that Hansik Goo embodies a unique blend of beauty and diversity, distinguishing itself from other dining establishments in the city. Through our offerings, I would love to showcase a distinct culinary experience that sets us apart and highlights the richness of Korean gastronomy in a refined setting. 

What do you hope guests take away from dining at Hansik Goo?

It is my hope for my guests to depart from Hansik Goo with a broader appreciation of Korean cuisine. Dining at Hansik Goo may allow them to delve deeper into the rich tapestry of Korean culinary traditions and culture, thereby exploring the diverse flavours and nuances that make Korean cuisine truly special. The most fulfilling aspect of being a chef for me is witnessing the sheer delight on my guests’ faces as they relish a meal at Hansik Goo. 

What do you hope guests take away from dining at Hansik Goo?

It is my hope for my guests to depart from Hansik Goo with a broader appreciation of Korean cuisine. Dining at Hansik Goo may allow them to delve deeper into the rich tapestry of Korean culinary traditions and culture, thereby exploring the diverse flavours and nuances that make Korean cuisine truly special. The most fulfilling aspect of being a chef for me is witnessing the sheer delight on my guests’ faces as they relish a meal at Hansik Goo. 

What’s next for you? Any goals? 

My ultimate aspiration is for Hansik Goo to evolve into a revered and esteemed dining destination not only within Hong Kong but also on the global culinary stage. I aim for our restaurant to be recognised worldwide for its distinctive interpretation of Korean cuisine and dining experience. 

Also see: Where to eat in Hong Kong this September