Sau Lee's founder Cheryl Leung on her design process and her inspirations
Aug 15, 2024
After 10 years of thoughtfully crafting East-meets-West garments for cool girls around the world, Sau Lee founder and creative director Cheryl Leung has much to celebrate. She talks to Haley Sengsavanh about her design process, and how strong women and Hong Kong continue to inspire her
Feminine, glamourous, chic and desirable – all words that have been used to describe Hong Kong- based label Sau Lee. Launch after launch, it keeps its growing fanbase on their toes with an ever-expanding array of perfectly tailored and eye-catching garments. From vacation-ready crochet skirts to colourful knit maxi dresses and pastel-coloured sequin bralettes, one thing is for certain: Sau Lee is never stagnant.
The last time founder and creative director Cheryl Leung spoke with #legend, in 2023, she had expanded into bridalwear and was planning a foray into accessories with a line of handbags (adorably named “mini sau”). But the milestones haven’t stopped there. The brand is launching the Empire Collection for the autumn season, which marks an ambitious exploration into three different ready- to-wear categories: separates, suiting and outerwear. Not to mention an upcoming anniversary capsule, which is being kept under wraps but has been teased as its most opulent collection yet.
Last year, Leung shared with us that she hoped to strengthen Sau Lee’s foothold in key markets abroad. It has since been “gaining a lot of momentum globally”, a fact that is surely boosted by trendy pop-ups and exclusive trunk shows in major fashion cities like London and New York. “The response has been really positive,” Leung says. “It’s been amazing to meet our customers and touch base with our communities in person.” She also noted that she’s working with boutique partners in Europe, and launching with a leading Middle Eastern retailer later this season.
Despite its growing global attention, Sau Lee has somehow still managed to stay true to its original identity. Leung was born in California but raised in Hong Kong, and founded the brand in 2014 due to a lack of East-meets-West aesthetics on the market. Her modern interpretation of traditional Chinese garments like the cheongsam, and seamless blend of Asian craftsmanship with Western silhouettes soon became the Sau Lee standard. For instance, the Beth mini dress features a mandarin collar with Chinese buttons, but also oversized puff sleeves and comes in a bold hot pink colourway.
Also see: Paris Olympics team uniforms to check out
The Empire Collection is described as powerful, sophisticated, sensual and the “epitome of winter glamour”. It was partially inspired by working women, a theme that has been integral to the brand from the very beginning. In fact, “Sau” is derived from Leung’s sister’s middle name, and “Lee” is her mother’s maiden name. Sau Lee has always been a “love letter to women,” meant to empower and inspire.
“I grew up in a home where women worked day jobs, as well as took care of the household. To me, they were superwomen,” Leung says. “They did it all. Today, we see more and more women ‘having it all’, and it’s no longer about compromising for a family or a job.”
Leung recently became a mother herself, giving birth to her first child this May. As more and more women continue to enter the workforce all around the world, she wanted to use this collection to celebrate female leadership and feminine strength.
While the moodier colours may be a bit of a departure from the usual lighter tones or bright prints, this is not a loss in the brand identity at all. Rather, it’s showing a bold new side to the Sau Lee woman. The Kaye bodysuit, for example, features that signature mandarin collar with pankou button details but is created from sheer mesh and comes in a rich Bordeaux red.
By introducing separates, suiting and outerwear with this launch, Sau Lee is also able to grow beyond occasion wear and truly become a “lifestyle brand that offers a complete wardrobe for everything the Sau Lee woman needs”.
One such bold new introduction to the line-up is the Quinn coat, an oversized statement piece made from faux shearling. Leung’s personal favourites from this collection are the revival of the shirting series, an interpretation of the classic white button-up. “The tailoring items are carefully designed power pieces that still include the quintessential Sau Lee touch. That will always be feminine,” she says.
When asked about her design process, Leung says that it usually takes around four months, and includes visits to the local fabric markets to look for “newness” and “gather inspiration”. “From there, I begin drawing, creating the collection on paper, and then the sampling process begins,” she explains. “I build upon the collection as we sample up, creating and tweaking along the way to finalise each product.”
