Marc Jacobs made a statement about “tuning out the noise”, showing his collection without music. Ironically, his works were very much inspired by music, specifically the documentary Hip Hop Revolution. It’s easy to see why Jacobs was drawn to the flair of early hip hop, it had an ease that sportswear embodies – tracks suits, a sweater or a short coat just thrown on. Stephen Jones created dramatic hats with height channeling Andre 3000. Chunky dooky chains with gilded mice to complete the total look (a collaboration with the artist Urs Fisher). Fur short coats and gangster shearing collars on the outwear stir pangs of buy-now-where-now. Marc Jacobs is an American designer doing sportswear that is nostalgic and glamourous, rooted in real American references that he can relate to. This is even more obvious with the growing number of Europeans on the scene. So good to have him back from Paris.