On our last day at SIHH - how did time fly by so fast! - we checked out Ulysse Nardin, Richard Mille and Parmigiani Fleurier.
Ulysse Nardin debuted the Freak Innovision II concept watch at last year’s SIHH, which boasted no less than 10 game changing innovations. This year, we’re introduced to the Freak Vision, which is every part as impressive as last year’s novelty, but more streamlined and and ready for the consumer’s wrist. The timepiece boasts the Grinder self-winding system, first introduced in the InnoVision II, making the Freak Vision the first automatic watch in the Freak collection.
The new timepiece also boasts the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Escapement that exploits the elasticity of flat springs and allows for constant force escapement. Like previous Freak watches, the time is displayed by the baguette-shaped movement, which rotates once per hour to function as the minute hand. A white triangle on on the barrel shows the hours. The Freak Vision also comes with a thin bezel lined with blue rubber that acts as a winding wheel since the timepiece does not come with a crown.
This year, Richard Mille has collaborated with polo player Pablo Mac Donough for its latest novelty: the RM 53-01. At first glance, the tonneau-shaped Carbon TPT-cased timepiece is instantly recognisable as a Richard Mille creation, but look closer, and it might be one of the more futuristic-looking watches yet. Richard Mille didn’t use regular glass for the watch, instead collaborating with Stettler to create a sapphire glass so strong that it will only crack in face of the strongest shockwave, but won’t shatter.
The calibre RM 53-01 features a large tourbillon, visible through the top and bottom sapphire glass, and is suspended in the middle by a system of cables and pulleys that resemble a cable-stayed bridge. The design minimises the effect of shock and damage - polo can be a pretty dangerous sport, judging from the display of MRA scans at the booth that showed massive injuries Donough sustained to his skull throughout his career.
This iconic Kalpa collection returns to the spotlight this year with a refresh, keeping its original design features but now housing a brand new in-house movement that is tonneau-shaped to fit with the watch’s tonneau-shaped aesthetics.
The Kalpagraphe Chronomètre comes in 18k rose gold, and a deep Abyss blue dial colour. The signature tear drop lugs, and Delta-shaped hands on the dial complete the watch. Inside beats the calibre PF362 with a 65-hour power reserve, the self-winding integrated chronograph is also COSC-certified, and features a tachymeter scale and date display.